I thanked the Goeres family for the
excellent food and opportunity to finally do some scythe-wielding and
made plans to head on over to the nearby town of Saschiz. I had
learned of the Fundatia Adept organization and wanted to find out
more about the scope of their work, but their website actually does a
very good job of explaining what they're about. But first I should
give a little background info about the region in which they work and
which I had been traveling in for the past couple of weeks.
Transylvania, which is basically the
entire hilly central part of the country ringed by the Carpathian
mountains, has a very complex history that has been complicated even
more by the recent fall of communism and migration patterns resulting
from that. Starting around the 1200s, a mix of Saxon (Germanic),
Hungarian, and Romanian peoples lived here and it changed hands
several times between different empires, though it was probably part
of Hungary for the longest time. After World War I the current
Romanian border lines were drawn and many of the Hungarians and
Saxons who stayed felt disenfranchised by the new power structures.
As communism set in after World War II, there was a steady migration
of Saxons back to Germany which greatly increased after the fall of
the eastern bloc in 1989. Now they are a very small minority, and the
distinctive houses and villages they left behind have now been
inhabited by Romanians and Moldovians seeking to establish
independent property ownership and farmsteads in the wake of decades
of communal ownership. The Hungarians are still around in much
greater numbers but many of them refuse to speak Romanian!
Fundatia Adept was founded to preserve
the very eco-friendly forms of agriculture that had developed in
these rolling hills over centuries, and which is now in danger
because of European Union policies that favor large-scale farming
over the small-scale "peasant" approach. Romania is home to
some of the most traditional (i.e. straight from the Middle Ages)
forms of farming that can still be found in Europe, but practices
like local butcher shops, village-level milk distribution, and even
horse-drawn carts are in danger because of the EU's drive to sanitize
and modernize the Romanian countryside. Personally I think the
traditional ways are much better and deeply rooted in culture, and I
strongly wish that we had preserved more of this in my homeland of
Eastern Kentucky. Fundatia Adept has established various ways to make
small-scale farming both legal and economically viable by setting up
centers for milking, value-added production (jams, pickles, etc), and
marketing assistance so that peasant farmers can meet EU codes and
survive financially in the 21st century. All in all it seemed to be a
good model for something similar I'd like to set up back home.
Back on the bus to the next locale,
this time crossing through to the other side of the Carpathians to a
monastery in Suceava county. I didn't expect to be farming with
friars but the description of this place on the WWOOF site made it
seem pretty interesting as it was sort of a nursing home that grew a
lot of its own food on site. The bus journey was yet again
breathtaking, and I really enjoyed seeing the local architecture
style of the houses and churches change so dramatically from one
region to the next. Eventually I made it to Targu Neamt and was given
a ride to the monastery some 45 minutes away by a veterinarian who is
friends with the friars. One thing that I didn't expect or realize is
that monastic friars in Romania both make homemade liquor and drink
it. A LOT. In fact my first experience upon arriving at the monastery
was to be led down into a brick dungeon and be given glass after
glass of very potent ţuică
(lovely moonshine made from plums), and for some reason it seemed like a good idea to serve
dinner right afterward!
Myself and a random WWOOFer from
Seattle (Aaron) spent the next several days working with a team of
local dudes harvesting hay that had already been cut. It was a bit of
a weird experience as the locals seemed a bit resentful toward us
since we were working for free whereas they were doing this for
income; they also seemed a bit impatient with our lack of knowledge
of how to be Romanian farmers, and the intense language barrier
didn't help. Aaron and I left before too long as there didn't seem to
be very much to learn here and to my aggravation it turned out that
they didn't even use scythes to cut grass and instead had a big ol'
tractor.
Before heading back into farming
country, I spent some time at a very sobering museum about the secret
police (Securitate) during Romania's communist era, housed in a
former prison for political dissidents. The period of communist rule
from 1947-1989 and especially the rule of Ceaușescu
from 1965-1989 left a very deep mark on this country, especially the
last 10 or so years of the regime which saw ordinary Romanians
struggling for survival in a terribly mismanaged communal agriculture
system. The Securitate had a reputation for being very brutal and
routinely killing any and all dissidents, and throughout my time in
this country I could still feel the sense of suspicion and paranoia
present in the minds of most people over 30.
My last real stop on the entire year
long trip would be the sleepy little town of Groşii
Ţibleşului deep in the Maramures
hinterlands. I had randomly made contact with Ryan, a Peace Corps
fellow teaching English in this village, and he had assured me that I
could once again get my scything fix if I came. I certainly got that
and much more. I knew I was in the right place when my hitchhiking
driver and I had to dodge through a herd of water buffalo as we were
coming into the town, and I was very enthused by the beautiful hilly
farm country and handbuilt traditional houses. My biggest regret
about this place is that I didn't know about it sooner, because I
probably would've spent the vast majority of my time in Romania here.
Unfortunately I had less than a week til my flight back to the US.
The week was filled with copious
amounts of ţuică
(the villagers would make me drink it before breakfast and right in
the middle of hard field work!), a couple of full days of scything
and other hay work, lots of visits to extremely generous and friendly
villagers' homes, and a foray out to a goat and sheep milking and
cheese-making operation deep in the forested hills. This last bit was
especially wild as it was a pretty treacherous road to get out there,
the Romanian sheep dogs were very intimidating, and only one person
could speak limited English, but it was a great time nonetheless.
These folks milked the animals by hand and boiled the milk over an
open fire in a cauldron, and used hand-harvested stomach enzymes to
get the cheese to separate. The first piece they gave me to try was
shaped just like Kentucky and tasted great! One of the Gypsy youth
working as a shepherd completely whooped me in arm wrestling, and my
sort of English speaking guide later took me to see her father's
homemade ţuică (moonshine) still and let me hear the very awesome
traditional Romanian folk music group she sings with. Despite the
really bad Eastern European techno that everyone there listens to, I
had a really, really good time hanging out in this village for almost
a week and wished I could've stayed a bit longer.
Other
than a brief stopover in yet another pretty old Romanian city (Cluj
Napoca) on my way back to the Bucharest airport, my time in Romania
and the rest of the wide world was done. There's really no way to sum it
up concisely or effectively; there was just too much variety and
intensity across the spectrum of places and people I spent time with.
From the former colliery towns of South Wales to the very active
strip mines of Jharkhand, India, from the highly efficient bioenergy
villages of rural Germany to the somewhat less efficient bioenergy
plants in rural Karnataka, from the peaks of Poland's highest
mountains to the foothills of the tallest mountains in the world, I
have been extremely blessed with an incredible diversity of
experience over this year. There were many ups and downs as I
haphazardly blundered my way through 12 countries, 3 continents, and
hundreds of people, organizations, hostels, couches, and tent spots,
and while I'll always wish I had done some things differently I can
only be deeply thankful to everyone and every place that shared some
time and knowledge with me.
As
I write this from a cabin in Knott County, Kentucky, I'm still
struggling with how to translate these experiences into something
meaningful for my homeland. We live with an economy and environment
dominated by a dying industry desperately clinging to what profits
remain in its last days, and it has successfully brainwashed the
people into thinking that without it they will die and that any
destruction is justified based on the few temporary jobs it provides.
This, combined with a general suspicion of most things "green," "progressive," or generated from some
outside influence creates a challenging environment for starting
projects that could create a healthier and more sustainable
Appalachia. But this is the place that my family has called home for
the past 200+ years and it is thoroughly a part of my psyche and
being; I feel a strong sense of responsibility to try to do something
that improves or at least preserves this place.
The
truth is that I don't know how or if this journey will be of benefit
to me in any obvious way. In fact part of me wonders if I've seen too
much, if I've been spoiled by experiences and understandings that
make it more difficult to return to a fairly mundane life in East KY.
There's no way to relay any of this in a way that comes close to
capturing the true experience to anyone who has never been to the
places in question, which is the vast majority of Eastern Kentuckians
(and Americans for that matter). This doesn't make me feel superior
to anyone else, just somewhat alien and in possession of an
unexplainable and uniquely personal load. But at the same time, I
treasure the vast majority of the moments that make up that load and
wouldn't trade them for anything in the world. Thanks for reading,
Nathan
D. Hall